4 Old Streets, 4 Different Styles

(四條老街，四樣風情)

I visited 4 old streets in New Taipei City: Dan Shui (淡水), Jiu Fen (九份), Shi Fen (十分), San Xia (三峽). The first two I had visited many years ago and liked so I want to come back; the last two was first time. They were very different, let me share with you…

Dan Shui (淡水)

When I got off the subway station, I couldn’t recognize it…one long pedestrian path along the Dan Shui river, lined up by vendors on the other side. The other street lined up by shops on both sides with a bright neon light gate. Along the pedestrian path, many vendors sell fried squids in whole or cut; they look yummy yet price shocked me, more than doubled of my expectation*. Where are traditional highlights, e.g. a gei (阿給) iron egg (鐵蛋) fish ball soup (魚丸湯)? After a long walk, I finally got to a narrow street and saw 2 ‘old-fashion’ shops selling a gei and fish ball soup. They were Dan Shui in my memory. Mom and dad tried a gei and Dan Shui-style fish ball (meat inside fish ball) and we all enjoyed. We returned on the other street and found iron egg and ludou peng (綠豆椪, mung bean) on our way. I’m happy to find the 3 traditional highlights and I hope the modernization has brought the locals more opportunities.

*For context: $USD 3-7 per item would still be considered cheap in many countries yet in traditional night market, most snacks were $1-2

Jiu Fen (九份)

If it’s your first time to visit the area, especially by public transportation, you may wonder ‘is it really the #1 attraction in New Taipei City? Or is it worth the effort?’ (it took subway, train, and bus from Taipei city; 2 hours for me to get there) while the bus passed through the hill, you saw aged homes and scattered building and it’s raining outside yet when you walked into the narrow street behind the building, you’d understand why… A Chinese saying 柳暗花明又一春(a new world opens up in front of you) describes it well! Variety of food and craft shops welcome you along the road. The air is a symphony of multi-cultures and eras, from (traditional) mountain tea, oo inn (芋圓) taro ball), yao chun guo (油蔥粿), Hakka cao zai kueh (客家草仔粿), stew, mixed meat and fish ball soup to (modern) fried pineapple, strawberry snacks, almond tea. You could also get Taiwan and local flavored souvenirs in a few dollars.

What’s special in Jiu Fen, perhaps what made it #1 spot, is beyond its charming old streets and delicious treats, but the genuine and generous people. Every business wants to sell yet the vendors here seem to care more than transaction. Almost all shops offered samplers and you were encouraged to try. It’s treated more like a gift, an opportunity to share their story than hard-sell. One young lady insisted me to try their ‘hand-made, no sugar added pineapple snack’ while mom hurried me to leave. She not only gave me one but two pieces for mom as well.

Shi Fen (十分)

Before going to Shi Fen, I thought people light the sky lantern (天燈) by the water before it flies to the sky. When I arrived Shi Fen (by train) and after train left, the railroad turned into ‘lantern art studio and playground’*. I watched people writing or drawing their wishes on the lantern then a vendor staff helped light a fire inside the lantern and took pictures for them before they let the lantern go, flying to the sky. I also learned that lantern’s colors have different meaning, e.g. red for safety, orange for wealth, yellow for good performance at school, pink for love, etc. I wish all dreams come true!

Another highlight in Shi Fen is the wall fall, 15-20 min walk from the train station to the park entrance and free access. A refreshing break into the nature, surrounded by the greens, water, and clean air. There are 2 water falls, reachable by 2 suspension bridges.

*For context: probably due to train comes every hour and old street (with shops) is along the rail station so visitors and locals take advantage of the location and timing

San Xia (三峽)

After more than 80 minutes through the busy city streets, bus finally arrived at San Xia Lao Jei (old street) stop. I looked around, full of commercial buildings and neon lights, where is the old street? I asked a local. She pointed us to go straight and turn left. We walked…you could tell from the buildings and signs that we came into ‘older’ area yet it looked more like the surrounding of a traditional market than the picture I saw online/ what attracted me here…It started raining and there was no sign of 金牛角 (jin niu jiao, golden croissant), a famous treat. The day before, a newspaper showed a picture of vice president candidate eating jin niu jiao here which helped me convince mom and dad to come.

We kept going…after passing a small temple and plaza….now, the picture I saw online/ what attracted me here is in front of us, ‘the red brick buildings lined up the street’. We were excited yet better settle the ‘water’ business first. After gratefully merging from the rest room, another good news, the famous jin niu jiao shop was now in our view. We walked over. Only 3 flavors left and the shop would close in 15 minutes. Lucky us, we got a treat for each of us and 2 for aunt and uncle tomorrow. It’s raining yet we happily enjoyed our golden corn in the shade then paid our tribute at Qingshui Patriarch Temple (清水祖師廟). We then walked back to the brick building street. It’s around 6pm yet most of shops were closed. We walked on the quiet street while blurry light reflecting from the ancient brick walls, life seemed back in time.

I enjoyed the visits and I’m glad to see each area/ old street with its own style, not a me, too. I also believe, with creativity and thoughtfulness, people/ areas can preserve and progress at the same time.